FLOATING FLOORS LAYING INSTRUCTIONS
Before Installation
The flooring boards should remain their packaging until ready to be laid. This will protect the
product from humidity and damage prior to laying, Each board should be inspected before
installation to ensure that it is of acceptable quality. No claims relating to surface defects can be
accepted after installation.
Before commencing work, ensure that the floor will fit under doors, as well as the skirting board.
It may be necessary to remove the skirting board whilst the floor is being laid so as to allow a
suitable expansion gap around the perimeter. Determine which way the strip should be laid. For
best results, the boards should be installed along the longest dimension of the room and in
square rooms. the best effect is achieved if the long joints follow the path of incoming light.
Sub-Floor
Make sure the sub-floor surfaces are dry, level and sound. Most surfaces are suitable including
concrete, timber flooring, particle board, vinyl or ceramic tiles and various screeds. Concrete
slabs must be tested to ensure that the moisture content is acceptable. Damp slabs must be
treated with a suitable moisture barrier to prevent migration of moisture to the wooden flooring.)
Whatever the sub-floor, it is recommended that a 2mm thick closed cell polyethylene underlay
be used to assist with bedding of the floor and to reduce transmission of impact noise. The floor
should be flat with any abrupt variations leveled out. For concrete or stone floors, a cement
based leveling compound should be used and timber floors should be sanded. Old timber
surfaces should also be checked for squeaking and repaired to give a sound sub-floor surface.
The floating floor system should not be applied to heated subfloors.
Perimeter Expansion Joints
1. Being natural material, timber is prone to movement with variations in moisture content -
variations which may be caused by exposure to radiant heat sources and/or changes in relative
humidity. To allow for expansion at the perimeter of the floor, it is therefore necessary to leave a
gap of at least 12mm at all walls and fixtures (including pipes and columns). A general
allowance of 2mm at each end per running meter of floor is desirable. That is, an 8 meter floor
would need 16mm expansion joint at each end. When laying the floor, these perimeter spacing
are set by the use of wedges placed between the edge of the board and the adjacent wall.
2. Place the first board in the corner with the groove facing the wall and place wedges to
establish the expansion tolerance at the end of the board. Join other boards according to the
room length but without initially gluing them together.
3. Turn over the last board of the first row so that the two tongues face each other and mark the
cut point on the back. Again set the board correctly leaving an expansion gap at the end without
gluing.
4. It is important that the boards follow the direction of the wall. If the wall is not straight, mark its
profile on the first row of boards and cut these length-wise accordingly.
5. Now place the first row of boards with the groove against the wall and introduce wedges to
establish a uniform expansion joint along the length. Apply adhesive to the
grooves and tap the boards together with a mallet and striking block. The last board is levered
into position using a pinch bar and secured with a wedge. Use a damp cloth to wipe off any
excess adhesive squeezed onto the board surfaces.
6. Take the off-cut from the previous row and place it at the opposite end of the room always
ensuring that board ends are randomly staggered - at least 250mm apart.
7. Apply glue to the longitudinal and end grooves and use striking block and hammer to fit the
boards seamlessly together.
LAYING INSTRUCTIONS for FLOATING FLOORS
Installation Tips
When gluing tongue and groove joints the adhesive should be applied in an even bead to the
upper surface of the tongue, both along the side and the end of the board - as shown in the
illustration. The tongue and groove joints have been machined to fit precisely together to form a
seamless connection. Where boards need to be tapped into place, always use a striking block
- do not strike the board directly with a hammer.
Laying the Floor
1. Measure the room to determine the correct quantities of material needed, remembering that if
a length wise cut is required to fit the last board, it is preferable that this last board should not be
too narrow. It may be preferable to install ripped down boards on both sides of the room to
achieve a balanced appearance.
2. Proceed similarly with all remaining boards. Use of striking block and hammer is important so
that any damage to the boards is avoided. Always use a damp cloth to remove excess adhesive
as each row is laid. Where heating pipes or pillars protrude from the floor, their position should
be measured and the board cut as shown in the figure. Remember to leave room for expansion
around such fittings. Other protrusions such as door architraves should be cut out in a similar
manner, always using wedges to ensure that the appropriate expansion capacity is maintained.
3. Determine the precise width of the final row of boards which can be cut as shown in the
diagram, remembering to allow space for the expansion joint. Apply the glue in the groove of
this last board and place it using a pinch bar as a lever. Wedges should be installed in the gap
to hold the flooring tight until adhesive has dried.
4. If skirting boards have been removed, they should now be replaced and if necessary, a
further bead should be fitted to cover the expansion gap. Remember to remove the wedges if
these have been used as this will allow the floor to expand as required.
Helpful tips:
1. Do not install this product below ground level.
2. Lay out several cartons to make sure of quality and grading.
3. lay flooring perpendicular to the direction of floor joists.
4. Using shorter pieces at undercut door jams will help when fitting flooring into place

SOLID WOOD FLOORS LAYING INSTRUCTIONS
Before Installation
The flooring boards should keep in their original packaging until ready to be laid. This will
prevent the product from humidity and damage before installation. Each board should be
carefully examined before installation in order to make sure that it is in acceptable condition as
no claims relating to surface defects can be accepted after installation.
Before commencing work, ensure that the floor will fit under doors, as well as the skirting board.
Remember, it is the most important steps for the successful installation and performance of
solid wood floor to modify and maintain the site conditions. Check if the heating or cooling is set
within the usual temperature range. Material should be on the job site for more than 48 hours
before being installed. The flooring is acclimatized and ready for installation when it has reached
a moisture level consistent with the job site and normal living conditions. Open the cartons, but
do not take the product out of the cartons. The installation of solid wood flooring should be
postponed until all moisture producing trades such as pouring basement concrete floors, drywall
and plaster work, plumbing, etc. are complete and their work is thoroughly dry.
Two kinds of sub-floor are recommended; Plywood or concrete.
Plywood. Underlayment should be a minimum 15mm thick plywood glued and securely
fastened to wood framing or glued or shot to a thoroughly dry concrete slab. If plywood is being
laid on joists, make sure to leave at least 3mm to 5mm gap between each sheet to allow for
expansion.
Concrete. Cement Sub-floors should be level within 2mm in each 2m. High area should be
sanded flat. Low areas should be filled with leveling compound. Concrete must be no more than
3% moisture content. Be sure to use free of water adhesives when gluing solid hardwood floor
to a concrete.
Installation Tips
During the installation, maintain the appropriate temperature of 18-20C° and 40-60% of humidity
Gluing Method.
Concrete must be prepared as mentioned above. This is the only option to install wood flooring
directly over concrete slab. Depending on adhesive specification basement priming may be
required. Remember to use only free of water adhesive when gluing wood floor over concrete
slab. Correct installation may vary depending on adhesive used. Please check the adhesive
manual before installation.
Nailing Method. Preparation
• Using a chalk line, draw a guide line parallel 1.5 - 2 cm plus plank width of the starting
wall considering the ~1.3 cm minimum expansion space between the wall and the first
strip, and another ~6mm for the tongue. This guide line must be at a 90 degree angle to
the adjacent wall. It is very important to start straight and square.
• Select the planks, for the first 3 rows, and lay them out on the floor in the general pattern
in which they will be installed. The straightest planks should be used for these first three
rows of floor.
• Always select your planks with care. Those with flaws must be recut.
Laying the Floor
1. Lay the tongue edge of the plank on the guide line, leaving a 1.3cm minimum space for
expansion between the groove edge and the starting wall. This expansion space will
allow the wood to expand freely. The baseboard or molding, nailed to the wall, should
cover the expansion space, once the job is done.
2. The first row must be secured to the floor using woodscrew. Drill holes at 45 degree of
the plank at the tongue top edge deep through plywood at every 20-25 cm apart. These
holes will make it easier to screw the nails and to avoid damaging the strip. Next, secure
the plank in place using a drill.
3. Measure and cut the strip the required length to finish the first row. The remaining
section should be used to start the second row, in order to minimize cutting waste. The
plank selected for completing the first row must be long enough to yield a remaining
section of adequate length. Leave 10 mm between the wall and the end of each strip in
each row.
4. Start the second row with a plank of at least 15 cm shorter or longer than the plank used
in the first row. This will avoid aligning or clustering the end joints. Set the plank in place,
drill a hole on the tongue edge at a 45 degree angle at every 20 to 25 cm apart, then
using drill, secure it in place.
5. Continue the laying process until the room is complete. Do not forget to carefully cut the
last row to leave a 1,5-2 cm expansion gap between the wall and the last plank.
6. Leave planks for at least a 4-5 days before applying preferable finish. Protect unfinished
planks from dust and dirt during this time.
Helpful tips:
1. Do not install this product below ground level.
2. Lay out several cartons to make sure of quality and grading.
3. lay flooring perpendicular to the direction of floor joists.
4. Using shorter pieces at undercut door jams will help when fitting flooring into place.